250 hours on the hobbs - new tools and more rudder work

Pic of the new #10 dimple dies for the screwa thagt will hold the coun terweight inside the rudder tip rib:

Rib is in the background and already dimpled. Here is one with the screws in place:

And one of the other side showing the dimples it created. I thought they were quite large until I fropped the screw in there - fits like a glove almost:

And another that shows the lead weight that will be mounted in this space, as well as the hardware called out in the plans, and the number 10 countersink bit that I will need to use to countersink the lead weight so that it will accept the dimples in the rib.Will also need to remove small amounts of the lead where the other rivets along sides will be set. This is also normal. The right amount of weight will actually be determined before painting and after painting, and also after the fiberglass tips are installed, which I will be doing later in the build.

Now on to the grinding of the yoke and my close quarter dimpling tools:

Apparently there are some problems with being able to up load pics to the blog so I may have to call it an night. I basically got back on scuffing out the divets in the bottom rib as best I could, and I finished grinding down more of the yoke and the close quarter tool after fitting my new reduced diameter female dimple dies onto the yok to check the clearance. I should have no more problems with divets being gouged into my parts due to excessively oversized parts or tools.

Here is the difference between the standard sized female dimple dies and the the reduced diameter one - at least 1/16th of an inch I would say:

And this one of the close quarter dimpling tool

I used both sides of my grinder- the normal side on the left for grinding away the steel a little at a time in a uniform manner, and the scotch brite wheel on the right for polishing everything up and removing any sharp edges left by the grinder. Worked very well as long as you remember to only remove small portions of metal at a time and then check your work constantly.

And the new tools that arrived today:

The one on the bottom is a rivet cutter - used if you need to trim rivets to a more correct size to prevent folding it over if it is too long. Hopefully tomorrow I can prep the rudder skin and prime it a bit more and finish dimpling it as well. Getting there.........

Rudder frame parts mostly cleaned, scuffed, and dimpled. Oh, and look, there is the infamous bottom rib that I have been slaving away at for the past two days to remove the divets that I created through my own stupidity. I can't seem to get any good pics of the divets, but I will post a couple of pics so maybe you can finally see what I am talking about.

The divets are in the absdolute worst place on the entire rib - very hard to get fingers or tools in there to get right at the trouble spot. You just have to be persistent and don't stop until you know within your self that the part has been repaired successfully. The divets are just underneath each the last several dimples of the trailing edge of the rib in the following pics.

SO you new builders out there reading this stuff, please, take my advice, as soon as you receive your yokes for your squeezer and any other close quarter tool that you may order that contains a dimple die in the frame or welded to the tip of some tool or pliers or whatever - fire up your grinder IMMEDIATELY and trim these tools down, as they will only cause you grief and stress later on if you do not do this.Also remember to hold true to yourself and to adhere to the rule that if the part does not quite sit or fit right, keep working on it until it does. Above all, I hope you learn from my mistakes. There - the rest of you have been warned!