Wednesday, March 14, 2012

Day 3 of the drawer project - getting there - -slowly

If work would not keep getting in the way I might have this done by now. I know folks that could have whipped this out in an hour or so, but I am not one of them. Actual total time invested in this endeavor is about 5 hours so far. Thought I would snap some in progress pics to show my progress.

First one is the drawer. Dimensions are 24x27x6. The drawer slides for the drawer sides are already attached. Drawer sides were cut from 3/4 inch ply scrap, and I will probably use some of the left over airplane kit crate wood for the front and backs of the drawer.


I am using 4 inch L brackets for supports between the floor and sides of the drawer. I will also insert brads or screws on the edges to further secure the sides to the floor.

Next is my solution for the mounting bracket on the open side of the drawer (toward the middle). After installing the outer drawer slide on the bench, I determined that I need to suspend a 2x something on the other side that is at least 8.5 inches long, so a 2x10 should fit the bill for this. I have decided to cut a length of 2x10 long enough to fit in between the front and rear runners of my workbench. I will then screw it into the bench from the top, countersinking the screws so they can't mar up any aluminum parts. I will also secure it from the front, and I may also toe in some screws on the rear side of the bench. I do not want to pull the bench out from the wall if I can help it. Too much junk to clean off and it is 7 feet long and very heavy.

This pic shows the 2x10 almost cut to the correct length standing in its approximate position next to the drawer side:



And lastly a pic of the bench with the left drawer slide already mounted:



Now if I can only find a drawer handle shaped like an airplane.........

Oh yeah, Joe from Vans called me back this morning and told me that the engineers said that every once in a while they have to debur the edges of the support plates on the wing spars because they get slightly deformed when riveted to the spar web - whatever that means. I also double checked the scuff marks again last night and determined that there are no defined edges at the ends of each mark, and everything seems to be smooth. My main concern was that they were so close to the rivet holes that I wondered about the possibility of a mal-fitting rib flange or a wierdly shaped shop head on a rivet. I don't think that this will be a problem though. Vans said to dress out the scratch and reprime, and then build on, so I guess that is what I will do.

I hope to be countersinking nut plate holes in the spars this weekend.

KPR folks!

2 comments:

  1. What about these?

    http://www.kitchensource.com/cabinet-hardware/bs059.htm

    http://www.amazon.com/Airplane-Biplane-Ceramic-Cabinet-Drawer/dp/B002YCH0PU

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    1. Dan, thanks for chiming in. Just goes to show ya that you have to be careful what you ask for - you just might get it! These are great! 1 and 3/4 inch diameter for the round ones should be just about perfect, and I can put on two or three of them across the drawer front. Thanks very much for digging these up, and for checking my blog!

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