The outboard aileron bracket has a "detailed" diagram that is supposed to show the rivet callout for attaching it to the rear spar. There is a note on this detail drawing that pertains to the location and orientation of several flush rivets that are supposed to be installed in a certain way, but the note was someehat misleading adn unclear to me. So I called Vans today to discuss. You have to be very careful about what you rivet and what you are not supposed to rivet, and when.
There are several places along the rear spar and the support brackets where additional items like the gap seals, ribs, skins, adn other items arfe suppposed to riveted in plave with the other rear spar parts. The aileron support brackets also have very specifi rivet patterns with different types and sizes of rivets, so you ahve to be very careful about this, or it is easy to mess up. Some of the rivets are round headed AN470 rivets, but there are some locations that require a flush head AN426 rivet, presumably to provide enough clearance for the movement of the aileron from one extreme to the other, which has kind of a non-symetrical leading edge.
Then I needed to determine what type dimple die to use on the flanges of the rear spar where the forked support brackets are located on the inboard side of the spar. Some folks have used 3/32 inch tank dies, which provide a slightly deeper dimple than the standard ones, due to the thickness of the .40 metal used to create the rear spar. that was another quetion I asled Vans about - if I should dimple or countersink metal that is .40 inches thick. Got the typical answer, which is that you can do either method, nad each one has its pluses and its minuses.
I am going to have to mull this over in my head a bit more before I decide which holes I want to dimple, and which ones I want to countersink, and if I want to use the tank dimple dies or the standard ones. SO I will sleep on it and decide tomorrow and then take the plunge.
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