Template for Measuring the 6 Degree Bend Angle

Using a protractor, measured a 6 degree angle on a piece of card board. After bending the ends of both angles, used this to verify if they were at 6 degrees per the plans. You have to pay attention to the plans here, because the angle is based on the forward portion of the 1/8 inch thick angle. I am learning that you must study every detail of the plans, including the origin and termination points of every line in the drawing.

Bending HS 810 and HS 814 Angle Support Brackets for the HS

One of two angle support brackets mashed between the two wood form blocks in my vise, with the ends to be bent sticking out. Can't see it here too well but the block on the back side has the 1/8th inch radius on the corner, per the plans. a 6 degree bend is required, and this needs to be accurate so that both sides of the front spar will have the correct angle for the ribs and the skins. All it takes is a rubber mallet applied squarely at the root of the aluminum to start the bend. It only took a few wacks to get it bent as far as it needed to go. Much easier than I thought it was going to be. How did I know when I reached the 6 degree angle you might ask. Read on for the answer.....
Oh, and thanks to my buddy Ron Duren for reminding me to make the bends in the right direction. It is very easy to make a mistake if you do not think everything through at least twice before actually doing it.

Step Drilling to final Mounting Hole size in Center Hinge Bearing

The drill bits I used to increase the size of the holes in the center hinge assembly

Enlargening Center Hinge Bearing Sub Assembly Nounting Holes

Another shot of the center hinge assembly - this time attempting to enlarge the holes from 1/8inch to 10/32 per the plans. These are the mountinh holes that will be secured to the rear spar with bolts instead of rivets. This was a pain in the ass - I had to use about 5 different drill bit sizes since this hole goes through 3 different layers of material - one steel, one thick aluminum, and one thin aluminum sheet. Note the huge burr that I will need to remove on the lower left hole. I will do this with a file or dremel tool to clean up all the holes. Also note the different colored clecoes. The darker copper ones are for 1/8 inch holes,and the gold ones are for 3/16th inch holes. These worked fine for holding the hinge assembly in place as I enlarged each hole. The drill its kept binding in the metal, so I finally had to put 3 in one light oil on the bits to alow them to keep cutting the metal. What a major pain this was.

Pneumatic Squeezer - I call mine BIG BERTHA

Here is the $700.00 beast that takes rivets and mashes them down like they were grapes, with no effort on my part except to activate a trigger that drives a ram. This is a pneumatic squeezer that can be used to squeeze rivets that are within a few inches of an edge. It is a bit bulky and heavy, and you need to ensure that the work is securely clamped to immovable objects. You put different sets ior dyes n the ends of the black jaws depending on if you are riveting or dimpling the metal. The ram is adjustable and screws in or out to adjust for the proper length of travel. It delivers about 3000 psi,so you don't want to get your fingers caught in this when it activates. Note the air hose attached to the other end. My compressor is set to 90 PSI,so this tool takes that air pressure and bumps it up to 3000 psi in the blink of an eye - impressive!

Cleaveland Tools All-in-One Rivet Gage - very handy tool!

Another really bad pic of a special gauge that I ordered from Cleveland Tools - it has 3 measurements, the size or diameter of the shop head, the height or depth of the shop head, and the height of the remaining rivet shat that is required after it is inserted into the work, to ensure that that rivet is long enough to form a proper shop head. Very handy tool once you understand how to use it.

Shop Head of the AN470AD4-6 Rivets - First Sub assembly complete!

And the other side of the assembly showing the shop head, or the stem of the rivet that has been smashed down, forming the opposite side of the rivet. These have to meet specific thickness and depth measurements, and so using the correct rivet is very important. I have GOT to get me a camera with a manual focus, or fiure out how to disable the auto focus on this one!